THE SS24 “KHYZHA” COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE OF THE UKRAINIAN CARPATHIAN
The SS24 collection, titled KHYZHA, continues to explore Ukrainian architecture and its construction traditions, reinterpreting the architectural heritage and daily life of the inhabitants of the Ukrainian Carpathians. PODYH embraces the simplicity and clarity of the forms and lines characteristic of the region’s buildings, creating a connection between centuries-old traditions and the present.
The collection’s name, KHYZHA, which means “dwelling” in Ukrainian, refers to the traditional houses of the Lemko people, one of the ethnic groups in the Carpathian region.
The collection embodies the shapes of various traditional structures such as wooden churches, bell towers, windmills, and houses, as well as architectural and construction methods used by masters.
“It was fascinating to explore techniques used by different craftsmen and integrate them into garments,” says Daria Plaksyuk. For example, the traditional carved talisman six-petal rosette (called Gromovyk in Ukraine) has been reinterpreted and adorns cutouts on the back of dresses and tops.
The silhouettes of the styles also replicate the volumes and forms of architecture: lively and light fabrics represent the connection with these incredible buildings through wide, trapezoidal, and stepped structures.
Special emphasis was placed on the colors in this collection, which reflect both the natural elements of Carpathian architecture – wood, straw, and clay – and the colors of regional ornaments and decorations.
Among the looks of the collection, the raffia dress occupies a special place. With its imitation of the structure of a thatched roof and a multitude of refined details, this dress becomes a true work of art.
Another highlight of the collection is the bags and accessories. “I am very proud of the accessories made from leather scraps, which mimic traditional roofing techniques such as “Dranka,” a type of wooden shingle, and thatched roofs.
Additionally, this season we introduced the Vitryak keychain, a handmade leather accessory that reinterprets the traditional wooden windmill,” says Daria Plaksyuk.
The name of each item is a Ukrainian word associated with its architectural inspiration, such as Vitryak – windmill, Dzvinytsya – bell tower, Dranka, Gont – types of wood shingle, Strikha – straw roof, and others. It helps to stay connected and further delve into the heritage of the region and style.
The decorative element of the pediment – tympanum (in Ukrainian – Tympan) – is reflected in the scalloped bottom
The delicate ornament of lace carvings is reflected in the embroidery on the Merezhyvo dress
The Dranka cape is a reinterpretation of a defensive outpost covered with impenetrable scales of wooden boards
The inspiration for the creation of Dranka dress was the traditional method of covering roofs with wooden boards (in Ukrainian – Dranka)
The defensive tower-fence (in Ukrainian – Zaborola) is recreated in Zaborola top through a massive overhanging collar with imitation of wood shingles
The defensive tower-fence (in Ukrainian – Zaborola) is recreated in dress through a massive overhanging collar with imitation of wood shingles
Wooden palisade (in Ukrainian – Chastokil) is recreated in palazzo pants through vertical pleats
The tower-like shape of traditional Ukrainian wooden churches was reproduced in the image of Vezha pants and Vezha skirt
THE AW23 “BRAMA” COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY THE ARCHITECTURAL TRADITIONS OF KYIVAN RUS
PODYH, a brand at the intersection of architecture and fashion, continues to explore Ukrainian architectural heritage. The BRAMA collection is inspired by the architectural traditions of Kyivan Rus.
The architecture of Kyivan Rus is a synthesis of monumental forms and elegant decor; impregnable defensive fortifications and intricate artistic carvings. Ancient Kyivans used wood to express their own perception of building beauty, sense of proportions, and harmony of architectural forms with the surrounding nature.
“Ancient Kyiv is an impregnable fortress surrounded by earthen ramparts and wooden palisade walls. The entrance to the fortified city is possible only through the gate – BRAMA. So for me, BRAMA became the starting point for learning about Kyivan Rus.
The BRAMA collection is an attempt to find a connection with the ancient Kyivans, to understand their life and way of life at that time. Since it is the soul of the people embodied in wood,” – comments on the name and meanings of the collection, brand designer Daria Plaksyuk.
Allusions to defensive constructions occupy a special place in the BRAMA collection: a wooden palisade is recreated in palazzo trousers through vertical pleats; defensive towers-fences are recreated in a dress and top through a massive overhanging collar with imitation of shingles.
The Dranka cape is a reinterpretation of a defensive outpost covered with impenetrable scales of wooden planks.
The designer also reinterprets the various architectural decorations that our ancestors used to decorate buildings.
Thus, the decorative element of the pediment – tympanum – is reflected in the scalloped bottom of the straight vest and skirt costume.
And the delicate ornament of lace carvings is reflected in the embroidery on the Merezhyvo dress.
The color scheme of the collection emphasizes the austerity of architecture and does not distract from the monumentality of the images. The products are not oversaturated with fabric textures, and the main emphasis is placed on conveying the textures of architecture through individually developed techniques that echo the approaches of past masters.
A special accessory was the bestseller of the KHUTIR collection – Vitryak bag in new versions – in black, with a sheepskin insert, in a larger-sized. They perfectly complemented the looks and emphasized the connection between the origins of Ukrainian folk architecture and Kyivan Rus.
